The Forgotten Shrine of the Sikhs Books on Kathmandu are silent about this shrine. It is not on the tourist map. No coaches park below the small forested hill by the river on the road to Balaju. The temple is left to bird song and the occasional visitor who either knows it is there or by chance comes upon the small weathered sign which says, “Guru Nanak Math” (27°43’31″N 85°18’19″E).

An arching stairway leads through trees and bamboo to the small building which from the outside looks like any Nepali farmhouse. I found the climb up the stairs refreshing even though I was a bit breathless.

The city, which now encroaches on the fields about the hill, is so screened by greenery that one can almost forget its existence.

The busy sound of traffic trails further and further behind. Through openings in the trees can be seen the river and a high mountain. A small grassy clearing just before the house is just the kind of place a weary traveller would have welcomed. Cool. Quiet. Undisturbed.

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